TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Dramas, anectodes, and fairytales. Cock-and-bull stories, too.

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mike-giles690ktm
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by mike-giles690ktm » Fri Jul 27, 2018 9:06 pm

Great report,thanks..
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aceranic
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by aceranic » Tue Aug 14, 2018 6:25 pm

Nice RR. Wish there was more.

Golf II was made in Sarajevo in TAS factory thet is a reason why so many are there. Also it is easy to repair, hammer, pliers some wire and screwdriver.
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corneelbaert
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Tue Sep 11, 2018 6:01 pm

The next day we got up quite early to go get some more Bosnian TET. We also tried to find a new SD card for the camera and got talking with a UN veteran in bad French (our French just as bad as his). Het was apparently a peacekeeping soldier originally from Slovenia and had seen the world. Upon retirement, he had bought a few houses and was now living off the rent in Glamoc. Het was kind though, and helped us ask around for the card... however no success. When he started sharing stories showing - like a child with a plastic Kalashnikov - how he shot this and that we thought it was time to time.

As soon as the tar made way for gravel so did a clear sight for heavy fog. White gravel road and white fog all around us we slowly started gaining height and soon the fog broke. We found ourselves upon one of the most beautiful sections of TET we have encountered. A nice gravel road gently climbing into the hills with a wide open view all the way. Pictures say more than words:

The fog in the valey and the winding gravel road:
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Wide view:
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Riding up:
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corneelbaert
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Tue Sep 11, 2018 6:26 pm

Next up we entered a long forest section that took us about two hours. This was more something for lighter bikes (or better pilots) but we struggled through at 30 to 40 km/h. After about one and a half hour of nothing but trees we suddenly spotted an absurdly huge truck right next to the track. In the next turn, thinking: 'wow if this got here there could be an other one' I nearly crash into a full size tree lorry and got to a full stop about one meter in front of it's hot front grille.

The driver though was unbothered and decided to back up a bit to allow us a narrow path to pass his huge truck. It's really unbelievable that trucks like that can climb up there muddy forest roads where we both struggled not to slide and fall. Apparently its mostly the top layer that is lose ... (or that's our excuse at least)

After this incident the forest continued uneventful till we got to Kupres by 1PM.
Kupres looks like a nice town, is much more busy and generally more lovely than Glamoc.
We got dinner: local snack food Cevapi: very greasy sausages in a fried loaf with some cold unions for excuse of vegetables.
Tastes way better than your local Mac Donalds though ...

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corneelbaert
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Tue Sep 11, 2018 7:03 pm

Utterly satisfied by the hefty meal, we decided to skip the next bit of TET that looked just as forested as the last bit. We also worried about getting to Mostar in time where we hoped to be fresh to climb the famous mountain. Thus said we sought out some white roads on our physical map that lead to Pozor Rama. This turned out to be one of the best sections for fast passed offroading. We got treated with two lane wide fast gravel roads. We both immediately started working on our drifting skills. The thrill of attacking a soft turn at 80km/h with the real wheel spinning out is something I will never forget and hope to be able to experience again ... and again. Because of the new found speed we got to Pozor Rama (a stunningly beautiful lake) in about one hour and a half. We head straight for the café where the TET trail leads in the middle of the lake and encountered some Czech guys on big KTM's. Mistaking them for fellow TET riders we joined them at their table. In very bad English we found out that they had been coming to Bosnia to go offroading for years and hadn't heard of the TET yet. Nice guys.

After Pozor Rama we took the highway to Mostar to get there in time. This is a really impressive road through a very long and wide canyon. However I consider this peace of road the most dangerous I have ever done. Big trucks cornering at mad speeds and SUV's racing blindly into corners to overtake them.

Comming down from the mountains the temperature started to rise to a very uncomfortable 36°C by the time we got to Mostar. Especially the last 20km's were tiring in the heavy trafic. When we finally entered Mostar we did not realy know where to go, so we took a bridge to the other side of the river and then followed the signs to 'stari most' - the old bridge. We drove on until the town turned older. When the road became very small and paved in cobblestones we stopped - sensing that it wasn't really alowed to be driving here. We discussed what to do until a guy started being very smooth to us. Both on gaurd for tourist traps we kindly said yes to the guy but ignored him. My friend went to the nearby hotel to ask for prices but this turned out to be quit high (130euros ...). The smooth guy kept trying though and informed us he was in fact a governement agent there to help tourist. He showed us his batch ... in cyrilic off course, but we dicided to give him a chance. He asked what we wanted and proposed to guide us to a very nice apartement in the old center for 50 euro's a night. So we went with him. Good decision! A nice air conditioned apartement, breakfast included, with a courtyard for the bikes right in the old center. And it gets better, to pass the hottest part of the day we could use the pool of an inner courtyard full of cafes about 20 meters away. When we got there we were pretty much alone and enjoyed a few beers while cooling ourselves in the pool. (it's at the end of the movie part 4)

In the evening we went for a short sightseing tour and had a few more beers and dinner. Mostars very small old center is nice, but as soon as you walk pased it you can again see sighns of the war... like a big building with some big holes in it right in the center.

The very scenic Pozor Rama Lake:
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Mostar:
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Stari Most:
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Random building full of holes:
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corneelbaert
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Tue Sep 11, 2018 7:10 pm

13th of june 2018:

Part 5:

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corneelbaert
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Sun Sep 16, 2018 7:50 am

We woke up after a refreshing sleep to have a small breakfast in Mostar. After searching and finding a new SD card for the camera in a tourist IT shop, we started climbing straight out of the city centre. The road soon gave way to unpaved path as we passed the big flagpole on top of the first mountain. This ascent was one of the climbs that we were looking forward to. At first things went well, though the weather threatened to turn foul. So under heavy clouds we climbed up. After the last flat valley we started the real ascent up to the mountain. The loose stones got bigger and bigger and the hairpins more difficult to take. At one point the path really turned into a mountain path and exhausted and gasping for air I decided to take a break. However my friend was clearly not behind me anymore. Looking back I could spot him a bit lower sitting next to his super tenere that was dropped on it's side. Luckily he was unhurt and the damage was limited to a plastic plate up top. So we patched up the damage with some duct tape. It was however clear that he would not make it higher, so for the second time on our journey we reluctantly turned back. The road down was - to me - much more difficult than going up, but after about another hour we were back in Mostar.

We turned right to Konjic right away. Konjic was the real destination of our trip because we had booked a full day of enduro on light trail bikes there. (Adnan Tinjak -> contactable on facebook) This was again the same dangerous road we took to get to Mostar in the first place, but with some added miles full of tunnels, often without lightning and often with not so straight ruds cut into the asphalt. This made our bikes sway and felt really dangerous. By about 2PM we got to Mostar, met up with Adnan and checked into our apartment. We then did a scenic tour of Konjic, that was finished quite fast ... Basically it has a nice bridge and that's it. So we drank some beers and tried to spend the afternoon comfortable. We also spotted a fiat panda Van, which is nice. However we were in high spirits for tommorrow was Enduro day!


Going up the mountain.
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My friend, fallen, in the distance
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The depressed look was not an act :p
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Minor damage:
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Minor repairs:
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Those tires really take a beating:
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Dangourous tunnels on the road Mostar - Konjic
Tires tend to follow the ruds resulting in a swaying motorcycle.
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Stunning views on the road Mostar-Konjic
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Konjic stari most:
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Random mountains in the distance
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Fiat Panda Van:
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corneelbaert
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Tue Sep 18, 2018 7:47 pm

We woke up early and anxious as hell. This was the real enduro day in the real mountains. A first for us, since Belgium has nothing even close to a mountain. So we had breakfast and were early at the rendezvous with Adnan and had to wait a very long 15 minutes before he showed up. He finally picked us up with his car and on we went to the place where the bikes were stored a few clicks away in Konjic. First however he stopped at a small engine shop for 1l of standard 10w40 engine oil. We then arrived to see three glorious Yamaha WR450's form around 2005-2007 parked in front of us. They where parked next to the road and unlocked ... which says something. Adnan checked the bikes and added some oil. I had a bit of bad luck as the battery seemed to have died. However one kick and the engine was running. I enquired gently about the lack of licence plate and got a very reassuring answer: The police don't mind as long as we head straight for the trails. Well what would you do? Spoil the day or go on for the ride?

Right. On we went, first a small tar road. My tail light was working and Adnans front light. Other than that, no lights did anything. This kind of determined the order in which we had to ride through some unlit tunnels. Soon we were on a small tar road headed straight up the mountain. We passed our first few shepherds and gained altitude until the road gave way to unpaved glory! A steep, curvy gravel road carved into the face of the mountain. Adnan seemed determined to test our abilities and kept up quite a high rithm. Soon we were gasping for air, but none of us both would let it show. We were both utterly surprised at the difference between a loaded big bike and an unloaded light enduro bike. We were doing much more difficult roads with ease and soon we were headed for the top of the mountain. After about one hour and a half we stopped on top of it, with a stunning view. We had some cookies and drinks and had a chat with Adnan. A real nice guy, entrepreneur and musician. Some moments later Adnan got a call and had to sell a car on top of the mountain. We however drank in the glorious view we had and reflected on what a damn fine day it was.

Going up the mountain:
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Top of the mountain:
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Having a chat on top:
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One of the bikes did have a licence plate
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corneelbaert
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Tue Sep 18, 2018 7:52 pm

Enjoy!

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corneelbaert
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Wed Oct 03, 2018 8:55 pm

Next up we rode off down again through some beautiful meadows (always more or less on some kind of track, though sometimes mostly overgrown). We encountered more than one goatherder and his herd. Their dog's were every time barking very aggressive. Adnan insisted with big hand gestures not to kick for them and so we did not. (you can see this in the video) From the looks of the shepherds, their lives are spent in a totally different world than ours. About an hour into the second part of the ride we got to some bigger tracks that were car (4x4) worthy. They led us right to Lukomir, a tourist attraction of some kind. It's one of the 'unspoiled' true mountain villages. Unlike what you expect this turned out to be basically true. It's hard to describe. It's made out of different 'huts' with (mostly corrugated) metal sheeting as a cover. Aside from this they could well have been built in the middle-ages. It's also essentially a goat farmers village, and so it's streets are covered in goat shit... and a few Golf II cars that miraculously seem to survive even up here. Adnan took us right through the village onto a short but extremely impressive mountain trail to a nearby summit. This part felt utterly mad ... driving a motorcycle on a high mountain hiking trail with a 500 meter drop next to it kind of gets to you. As i stopped next to Adnan I got of the bike and looked over the edge ... I had driven my bike to about half a meter of a ledge that sits 100's of meters above the bottom. Nice! We could do nothing but drink in the amazing views.

Later we kind of slided down back into Lukomir and drove to the newly constructed mountain hut which was sadly closed. No beer for us. Adnan asked us if Pita would be OK for dinner and we both agreed. He promptly phoned to a friend and announced we would be there in half an hour. The next half hour was at first slow and impressive and for the last 15 minutes Adnan significantly increased the speed so that we were half jumping by the time we reached another mountain hut. Inside were two guys playing cards. One of them clearly had some disabilities ... Probably suffered during the war. He kindly offered u some drinks. We both had a beer, Adnan stayed of alcohol because of the Ramadam (the sugar feast that ends the fasting being the next day) and had some kind of yogurt-milk that I also tried after my beer. The pita turned out to be something far better than what we had expected (doner kebab). It was made out of minced meat, potatoes and fat cream, great for enduro riding!

Next up we had a small section of tar, that was clearly brand new and then headed up into the mountains on the other side of the valley. This was more of the same splendid enduro tracks high in the mountains. As we were heading for our last summit the weather turned foul. A black sky hung above the mountain so Adnan decided not to press our luck and start the descent. He told us this consisted of a fourty kilometers downward track. After some clicks it turned out to be truly spectacular. This was a track just wide enough for a small car that was sometimes litteraly carved out of the face of the mountain, ever going steeply down. We were really amazed to greet an old red Volkswagen Passat slowly climbing upwards ... 40 full kilometers of gnarly offroad. Halfway we took a stop at a beautiful stone bridge, enjoyed the view and drank some water. While going further down Adnan got stung by a wasp on his forehead. Initially we had some fun until it appeared that he was allergic to this and had no medication on hand. We stopped at the first village (bearly nicer then Lukomir) and got some fresh water to ease the swelling. As we continued it started to rain. Half an hour later we were back in Konjic and our guide had quite a swollen face.

What a day!

Thank god for the disk brake!
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Not my picture but thats what Lukomir looks like:
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Going up a mountain trail.
I drove on the grass because of the terrifying drop to the left of the trail.
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Nice view up top:
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Selfi:
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Finished Bosnian Pita!
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Nice bridge:
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