TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Dramas, anectodes, and fairytales. Cock-and-bull stories, too.

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corneelbaert
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TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Sun Jun 24, 2018 9:16 pm

From june 7th till june 17th we did a trip based on the TET in the Balkans.
The first two days were getting from Kortrijk (Belgium) to Dusseldorf (Germany) to get the night train to Inssbruck (Austria).
The second day we rode through Austria and Italy into Tolmin Slovenia where we stayed in the very pleasant hostel (cocktails for 3.5 euro's)
The only section of TET we did this day was in Slovenia, beautiful, but entirely on tar, enjoy:



Last edited by corneelbaert on Mon Jul 02, 2018 7:27 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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corneelbaert
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Mon Jun 25, 2018 8:25 pm

9th of June ... first real off-road TET.
We left Tolmin early in the morning and soon came to some very nice winding gravel roads that were our first introduction to the real TET.
Because we had limited time to reach Konjic in Bosnia, we decided to skip some parts of the TET that are a d-tour.
In Adjovscina, we did not go south but took the road East towards Vipava after which we rejoined the TET.

The climb started well. Only there were some stones clearly in place to block cars that we had to avoid. I nearly fell because of some of them. However once we entered the woods and wetter track, very soon my partner started crashing. We soon realized that the super tenere was unliftable alone.
This makes crashing much heavier as I had to stop and return each time to go help get the bike up. Also the oil light would be flashing afterwards because the bike would stay down until we were back together each time.
After about 3 drops we scouted ahead on foot and found the path to be worsening.
Very slippery mud combined with loose gravel and flat wet stones that provided no grip at all.
The XT simply had to much grunt and was not able to find grip in this soil.
Later on the trip my friend turned on the traction control, which made matters slightly better.
I think I would have been able to continue with my 990 adventure, but I would have been exhausted too pretty soon.

So, completely exhausted after two hours of struggling, we turned back ... both crashing another time going back down.
By the time we got back on the tarred road we decided it was to late to do any more TET and took basically great tarred road (some of it was even lined with racing curbs) all the way to Novi Vinodolski in Croatia.
There we stopped in a bikers bar at the coast. The tourist info directed us to an apartment nearby were some retired Germans and the Bosnian owner insisted that we drank to much snaps and to much beer.
Last edited by corneelbaert on Mon Jul 02, 2018 7:29 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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corneelbaert
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Mon Jun 25, 2018 8:40 pm

Starting point ... home pub
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Having a drink waiting for the train in the rain.
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Loading the bikes on the train.
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corneelbaert
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Mon Jun 25, 2018 8:45 pm

Leaving Italy, entering Slovenia.
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Stunning view in the beginning of the Slovenian TET (tarred road though)
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First views on the Croatian TET
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First contact with the coast at Novi Vinodolski
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corneelbaert
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Mon Jun 25, 2018 9:01 pm

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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Wed Jun 27, 2018 6:30 pm

Day 4: (june 10th): We started early from Novi Vinodolsky. We decided to join the TET again about 30-40 km's from the town, just south of the 5110 highway.
This part of the TET turned out to be utter bliss, real nice gravel roads with great views. By 10:30 in the morning we got to the entrance of Velebit National Park, were we had to pay about 8€ each.
The guard told us that we could only go 6km's and then have to return. (apparently this should change again I read somewhere but well to late for us...) On top we decided to hike a few minutes extra to get to a mountain hut where we could enjoy a cold beer with a great view. Afterward we road back and found a detour with some nice gravel roads aswel. Riding on we got to a section where for the first time we saw actual road signs giving distances on a gravel road .... Great!. We also encountered a pile of bear shit, which is great to. The last part before Karlobag was magnificent, it consist of a couple of tunnels, a lot of spectacular views and some parts in between steep rocks and a true abyss.
By two PM we got to Karlobag where we fueled up and saw a sign 'OK' with a motorcycle underneath. A very steep tarmac descent lead us to a truly great bar with their own small beach. We ordered beers and food and decided to swim, stay and get drunk. We asked the owner if we could sleep somewhere and behold, only 50meter away a fellow Belgian guy rented out a small but great apartment.

Great start of our tetting day! (just south of the 5110)

Great start of our tetting day! (just south of the 5110)
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View at the Velebit mountain hut:
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Road signs on a gravel road!
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Great sections close to Karlobag
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Last edited by corneelbaert on Mon Jul 02, 2018 7:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Wed Jun 27, 2018 7:08 pm

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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Mon Jul 02, 2018 7:00 pm

The next day started with the coastal road in Croatia. This starts out beautiful, but soon more houses and businesses appear along the road and so it becomes less special. We were both slightly hung-over and after the dreadful experience in Slovenia we decided to skip the climb after the coastal road because we had red before that it is pretty hefty. So we rejoined the TET in Krupa after some glorious asphalt (the D27) through a now much drier and hotter landscape. Sadly, unbeknownst to us, because of the heat the camera, put back together in cool but moist coastal air, fogged up from the inside. So sadly, we have no pictures and almost no images from this peace of the TET which we enjoyed a lot. Large mostly easy and relatively high speed gravel roads through a desolate and very hot landscape (+30° C). By noon, we arrived in Knin and had a beer on top of the castle (you don't have to pay to go through the gate and have a drink on the very nice terrace). We decided to push straight on into Bosnia-Herzegovina. We soon started seeing more signs of the war of the 1990's. Broken down houses, abandoned villages, occasional impact holes. At the boarder a very friendly guard let me pass easily. My friend however had to show his vehicle papers (I assume because his license plate was unreadable because of dirt). They were OK and so finally we were in Bosnia, which was the only country on the trip we had not visited before. At the boarded we had notices that our cash euro's were spent and so we decided to stop in the first city to withdraw some Bosnian Marks.
Coming into Bosansko Grahovo we fueled up in the first station, even before entering the city. We had to pay by maestro card, but this went OK. We then passed what we though were the (half destroyed it seemed at first) suburbs and found ... no city. It turned out the city was a one street town... In the second fuel station we asked where we could withdraw money. 'Not here they said, in Knin' ... 40kms back and over the boarder. (so this would be Kuna's) Abashed we decided to have a drink first. We tried to pay by card but no go ... 'no connection' was the answer.... byby to our last 5 euro bill ...
A bit taken aback we considered our options on the terrace. What to do? The closest city beside knin was over 50km away and we would miss a lot of TET because of this. Some 5m later a young guy turned up. Upon asking he turned out to speak English and said: you can withdraw money in the post office, but only until 3PM. It was 2.45PM. So we hurried back to the one street town that turned out to have a particularly well-hidden post office. Just before 3o clock we finally entered and glory glory it was true, we had our Bosnian Marks. We bought some fruit in the nearby shop, had dinner, and went to search for the TET.
Bosnia is great!
It started with the loneliest willowy landscape I had ever seen. Going on it only became more deserted. On the horizon thunderclouds were packing and for the first time we felt as if really on an adventure. It was clear that if a storm would break out we would have basically nowhere to hide. The road just stretched on through an empty landscape with no shelter. We stopped to put on our rain gear and both decided to go on but take it slowly. The realization that if something happened civilization was some time away dawned upon us and we both started riding slightly more careful. We were lucky however and the storm never broke. We did get rain, but never pouring and by the time we arrived in Glamoc, it was over.


The boarder with Bosnia
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Knin
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Stopping for the rain gear with the threath of a thunder storm.
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Glorious empty landscape
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Last edited by corneelbaert on Mon Jul 02, 2018 7:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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corneelbaert
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by corneelbaert » Mon Jul 02, 2018 7:21 pm

Glamoc was something special. Upon arriving some cows turned up on the main road. After riding around them we suddenly saw a lot of men on the street with gun like things in their hands.... turned out to be a funeral that had taken place in the rain, so they were umbrellas.... We then passed a Mosk. Yes ... real foreignness! We stopped at a bar and ... slightly uneasy because of the general dilapidated style of buildings and vehicles we had a drink. At first no one seamed to speak English in the bar, but a guy turned up and explained in perfect English where the Hotel was.... next to the ruin of the bank off coarse!

We could park our cars in the front yard of the hotel ... next to the ruin of the bank.
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My friend went to shower while I checked the chain and oil level of the KTM. After he came out again it was my turn. After the shower I had a bit of a shock ... a large centipede (i think) was on the bed. After throwing it out of the window I checked the whole room ... which was actually very clean. So I guessed that it had come with from the forest together with us. We did however decide to use our sleeping bags to sleep.

Not nice to have on your bed ... but I guess it came with our luggage:
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We went to eat and had a really great and cheap meal. In the mean time watching the sometimes hilarious but dangerous traffic... zigzagging in-between potholes and stray dogs.
Slowly the uneasiness disappeared and we started enjoying Bosnia.
We also noticed that Bosnia basically has all the remaining GOLF 2 cars.
Probably because it's a car that does not break easily!

Sadly some images with internal condensation...

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cmcmartinho
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Re: TET Slovenia - Croatia - Bosnia_herzicovina

Post by cmcmartinho » Tue Jul 03, 2018 1:32 pm

I'm in. Great report. Thank you for sharing.
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